The Green Mountain State greets wintertime visitors with a picturesque farmland landscape dotted with gourmet General Stores, bucolic B&B’s and a seemingly endless array of outdoor escapades: from Nordic ski centers providing cross-country loops and snowshoeing hikes galore to countless sledding hills and outdoor skating rinks, Vermont is New England’s snowy wonderland. But pretty red barns and maple syrup shops aside, for many Vermont-bound visitors the main attraction is found flecked along VT 100, aka The Skier’s Highway: the state’s myriad downhill ski resorts, stretching from Massachusetts to just south of the Canadian border. Mountainside communities continue to expand their offerings of great lodging and dining, while world-class snowmaking operations make up for any deficit in natural snowfall compared to Rocky Mountain resorts, ensuring varied skiing and riding terrain is available all season long, a few short hours drive away from many major Northeastern metro areas. While most mountains in Vermont get somewhere between busy and (let’s admit it) packed on major holidays and most weekends, almost all are delightfully quiet on the week days, in the shoulder seasons and early in the morning, offering those who can visit mid-week – or hustle to grab the first chair up the slopes – magically fresh corduroy to shred and precious moments of grand solitude among white peaks and frosty glades.
Motto Magazine’s adventure team traversed the length of the state to find four of Vermont’s best ski resorts: from cozy and comfortable to gnarly giant, vintage vanguard to family favorite, each of these destinations is a perfect representation of an entirely unique mountain experience. Appearing by order of location from south to north, read on for a breakdown of each resort’s general vibe, go-to trails and surrounding area, and take off on your own epic East Coast ski safari this season.
Mount Snow: The Perfect Weekend Getaway
Vertical drop: 1,700 ft / Skiable acres: 600 / Average annual snowfall: 158”
As Vermont’s southernmost big mountain, Mount Snow is the closest major resort to many MA, NY and CT cities, and a no-brainer choice for skiers, riders and families looking for a nice-sized mountain featuring a variety of trails across a user-friendly layout, with dependable snow coverage and modern infrastructure. An exceptionally friendly staff dispenses good service vibes at the rental shop, ticketing booths and chairlifts, on-brand with the overall Mount Snow experience.
When it comes to terrain options, Mount Snow punches above its size with four separate mountain areas served by a whopping 19 lifts which keep lines short for the most part. Bluebird Express, the six-pack bubble chair, shuttles skiers to the peak in a brisk seven minute taxi, wind- and rain-free. Beginners gravitate to Long John, a cozy run starting at the top, but a less-frequented option might be Snowdance off the Canyon Express, a wide trail with plenty of room to maneuver, or alternatively grabbing Seasons up to Cooper’s Junction, a shorter but equally low-traffic option. Snow’s Main Face features enjoyable curvy blues including Cascade, Hop and South Bowl; head on to Sunbrook on snowy days to explore a handful of longer scenic cruisers like Little Dipper and Thanks Walt, complete with a couple of bumpy stretches for extra diversion. Experts head over to the North Face, mostly consisting of short black runs like Olympic, Challenger and, of course, Ripcord – a double black diamond run that is steep and speedy enough to thrill even the most aggressive mogul hound in your group. Glades terrain is marked on the trail map, and includes ‘The Boonies,’ to the left of One More Time and ‘Sap Tapper’ right of Ego Valley. Lastly, Carinthia is home to the biggest terrain park in the East Coast with over 100 acres of features for all freestyle levels, a huge boon for anyone trying to hit the jumps and put some serious air between their blades and the ground.
Off the slopes, a variety of dining and lodging options are to be found within a few minutes of the mountain including Folly, a fine dining farm-to-table establishment in nearby, quaint Wilmington. West Dover has a larger selection of venues, including Trail 87, serving a creative menu of elevated comfort food, and the charming Tavern 1846, featuring an oyster bar and extensive selection of seafood and nicely charred meats on a first come, first served basis. There is a wide range of lodging to choose from, from the ski-in/ski-out Grand Summit Resort with its well appointed rooms and full service spa, to a slew of lodges the likes of Mountaineer Inn at the foot of the mountain, a more basic option which nevertheless delivers on its rustic promise with a can-do skeleton staff serving a full breakfast, and carefully maintaining the cozy library and outdoor hot tub.
Now a part of the Epic Pass, Mount Snow makes for a thoroughly appealing weekend escape: a friendly resort with a good amount of intermediate terrain and off-piste fun within a relatively short drive of NYC and Boston. Massive investments in snowmaking back in 2017 guarantee excellent coverage, which – complete with the mountain’s great grooming infrastructure – are an absolutely critical factor when it comes to any Southern Vermont ski vacation.
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Killington Resort: The East Coast’s Heavyweight Champ
Vertical drop: 3,050 ft / Skiable acres: 1,215 / Average annual snowfall: 250”
With the most skiable acres in Vermont and the highest vertical drop in New England, Killington is the biggest resort in the Northeast. ‘The Beast’ offers the most black runs of any other mountain in the state, and is known for its exceptionally long season thanks to world’s most extensive snowmaking system which can cover 80 acres with 12 inches of artificial snow in an hour – evidence of a committed philosophy to open early, close late and offer as much coverage as humanly possible all season long. A variety of trails – from Vermont-style narrow, winding profile blues meandering under canopy shades, to steep and fast mogul-laden sharp drops – ensure skiers and riders of all skill levels never have a boring moment in Killington, even if they ski the mountain for a full week. A sister resort, Pico, is a 10-minute shuttle ride away, offering a cozier experience with a still-respectable vertical drop.
Killington boasts six mountains including Killington Peak, Skye Peak, Snowdon, Ramshead, Bear and Sunrise Mountains. These peaks are serviced by 22 lifts and boast a widely varied terrain: beginners will have a blast down the large, flat open Snowshed, and on the easier green runs off Sunrise and Ramshead (Easy Street,) while novices in search for a slightly more adventurous fair will head over to the blue-to-green Great Northern, a long cruiser spanning all the way down from Killington Peak to Ramshead Base, or the flatter yet magnificently winding Great Eastern off Skye Peak. Intermediates will love Skylark/High Road, a nicely groomed blue combo off the Superstar Quad; Solitude, which features great views of the Green Mountains; and Bunny Buster off Snowdon. Expert skiers and riders looking to tame The Beast will make for Bear Mountain and hit Centerpiece, Devil’s Den and Growler’s narrow glade runs. Staying on Bear Mountain, Killington’s mogul claim to fame lies in Outer Limits, the steepest bumpy ride in the Northeast.
As you make your way to the resort, it is impossible to ignore the dozens of après venues and inns dotting the access road, in lieu of a more traditionally quaint/centralized ski village. K-Town offers tons of entertainment and eateries to choose from, and features a jam-packed annual schedule of events including festivals, musical performances and ski races, some which take place right there at the new K-1 base lodge, a modern, sun-filled edifice serving a variety of grilled meals, healthy bowls and chef-inspired snacks that’s pretty much unrivaled by any other base lodge in Vermont. Off the hill, the always-dependable Wobbly Barn steakhouse and music venue and the three-level, crowd-pleasing Pickle Barrel Night Club both feature free shuttle service on the weekends, so you can literally rage ’til you drop (which many set out to do in the party capital of Vermont’s ski universe.) The somewhat dreary town of Rutland is 30 minutes away and a great lodging alternative for the budget-conscious traveler who does not mind a longer morning ride to the slopes.
Between its sheer size and snowfall, awesome snowmaking and exciting party scene, Killington is the reigning heavyweight of East Coast skiing, boasting a wide-ranging terrain from wide open cruisers to narrow, classic New England runs, mogul runs and tree skiing to six terrain parks. The long season (from October to May,) inclusion in the Ikon Pass and proximity to NYC (5 hours), Boston (3 hours) and Montreal (4 hours) makes it not only the biggest, but seriously accessible as well.
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Mad River Glen: The Throwback Charmer
Vertical drop: 2,037 ft / Skiable acres: 120 / Average annual snowfall: 228”
Dripping in character and history, Mad River Glen is a skier-only affair right next door to Sugarbush, with plenty of glades terrain and naturally curvaceous trails cut organically into the mountain’s sides. For a resort rocking a bold motto such as ‘Ski It If You Can,’ Mad River Glen combines exciting black runs and winding cruisers with a laid back, throwback spirit owing in large part to it being the only cooperative, skier-owned resort in the nation. Snowmaking is kept intentionally limited, so when snowfall is good, it is practically all natural and the skiing is phenomenal. When temperatures rise and after several weeks without a major snow storm, expect grittier conditions with dirt and rocks sticking out where the base is thin. But Mad River Glen admirers take it all in their stride – embracing the grit as part of the glamour.
Beginners will love the mountain for the gently winding blues, while experts will appreciate the slower yet very technical nature of the naturally-cut runs – hugging the mountain bends and curves rather than offering wide, straight-down screamers – and plenty of off-piste action. Some of the best beginner runs live in the Birdland area, including Lark, Loon and Duck which run long with enjoyable rolls and dips. Strong Intermediates will adore Upper Antelope, a two mile run off Mad River Glen’s vaunted Single Chair, as well as Bunny, Lower Gazelle and Porcupine off the Sunnyside Double. Advanced skiers will have a field day on some of New England’s most difficult terrain: regardless of formal categorization, practically all expert runs in Mad River are double black diamonds, including Paradise, Chute/Liftline and Lower Antelope. On our visit, the super friendly Scott Brooks of Mad River Ski School, home of the fabled MRG Freeski Team, led us down ‘Cantaloupe’ (Catamount plus Antelope,) cutting through gnarly tree terrain onto the sensational Lower Antelope, followed by some epic bumps and mini-chutes on the challenging Martin all the way down to Bunny and back to base. Getting on the hill with an instructor in Mad River is the quickest way to get acquainted with General Stark Mountain’s best kept secrets, rapidly leveling up your technique while having an insider show you around the slopes.
A wooden, vintage photograph-laden cafe and lodge serves a delicious menu of hot food and beverages in a setting that feels distinctly different from anywhere else in Vermont. Off the mountain, carefully designed inns abound in the Mad River area including Waitsfield Inn and Lareau Farm Inn, and between the always busy neighboring local establishments of Mad Taco and Canteen Creamery Company, as well as the likes of Stoke Ramen Bar, Bluestone Pizza in the town of Waitsfield and the upscale Chez Henri at the foot of Sugarbush Mountain, culinary options are excitingly diverse.
Much of the goings on in Mad River Glen fall under the ‘gotta see it to believe it’ category – one really does need to experience the mountain first-hand to realize this kind of resort still exists today. Vermont’s ski scene’s best kept secret is a callback to simpler times, and is certainly worth a dedicated trip.
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Smugglers’ Notch: The Ultimate Family Destination
Vertical drop: 2,610 / Skiable acres: 310 / Average annual snowfall: 320”
Smugglers’ Notch – or Smuggs, as it is widely and affectionately referred to by its legion of aficionados – is a self-contained resort village that somehow manages to be large enough to offer a seemingly never-ending roster of family programs and activities, and yet still give off that easygoing, cozy feel of a mountainside retreat. The mountain itself enjoys higher snowfall due to its northern location, with naturally designed, classically New England winding trails, striking views and an under-developed, old-school overall vibe. For a group featuring varied skill sets, ages and sporting tastes, Smuggs is unparalleled in its convenience and abundance of recreational options.
The resort operates a door-to-door shuttle service to usher folks on to one of its three peaks. Kids and beginners typically stay on Morse Mountain, while parents and advanced skiers head out to Madonna or Sterling Mountain for some adult ski action. For a great warmup run before heading over to carve the blacks, look no further than Upper Rumrunner followed by any one of the multiple blue runs branching out of it mid-mountain, or try Thomke’s off the same lift – great fun with moderate moguls. Madonna II will whisk intermediates up to a range of fun groomers including Lower Chilcoot and Mulcahy’s Link. Madonna Mountain’s peak is also home to a series of short, incredibly steep and narrow double diamonds, including The Black Hole, the only triple black diamond on the East Coast, and The Back Bowls will further entertain advanced skiers and riders with multiple tree lines ending on Notch Road. When you’re ready to call it quits, Upper and then Lower Chilcoot or Drifter will run you back into the base lodge for an exceptional end-of-day slice, hot chocolate or fresh waffle.
Beyond downhill skiing, Smuggs’ Nordic Center offers snowshoeing, nighttime hikes and cross-country skiing, acting as the gateway to a network of 58 km of nicely groomed and tracked loipe trails; a team of instructors headed by charismatic center manager PK delicately coach first-timers and return visitors across a series of interconnected cross-country loops, catering to all levels of fitness and experience, for an incredibly organic way to become one with Mother Nature whether you opt for a gentle cruise through the woods or breaking a serious sweat up the rolling hills. Off the mountain, Smuggs provides families with spacious, well-equipped modern condos and an unparalleled wealth of diversions and facilities, all within the resort: from gyms, saunas and 8 pools for your pre- and post-ski recreational needs, to their FunZone 2.0 which includes a mini-golf course, arcade, laser tag arena, climbing walls and bouncy castles, through to several dining and entertainment options, community bonfires and regular fireworks displays.
With its diehard local and tourist fan base, affordable lift tickets, incredible variety of activities and higher snowfall average, Smugglers’ Notch is a distinctive destination: a clear winner in the family category that packs a major hillside adventure punch to boot. Families and groups keep coming back for years, taking advantage of both the extreme terrain and family bonding opportunities.
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