The ‘Cradle of Alpine Skiing’, Austria’s dynamic duo of charming mountain villages Lech & Zürs is bursting with art, fine dining, traditional hospitality and world-class downhill action.
By Mark Bernard , MOTTO Adventure Editor
In the winter of 1916, a young Austrian man by the name of Hannes Schneider had just finished working on a sharper wooden ski, when he set out to try it down the snowy caps which surrounded his mountain home in the village of Lech. Little did he know it was this very moment which marked the onset of modern downhill Skiing: the Alberg Technique he discovered then would develop to be the way we all ski today, and crown his home county, after which it is named, the birthplace of modern ski.
Fast forward One Hundred and some years. Through the introduction of the world’s first cable car and the first ski fork, both at Alberg, and Schneider’s home, aka Lech Zürs, is the most celebrated resort in Austria, and one of the most celebrated in the Alpes – a truly international player with broad global appeal. Easily accessible from two major airports (Innsbruck and Zurich) and featuring world-class grooming, modern infrastructure and year-round activity and festivals, Arlberg today boasts a wide variety of experiences. From upscale yet delightfully unpretentious, quaint little villages bursting with charming spas, traditional gourmet dining and deeply luxurious hospitality (Lech and Zürs), through high-end chalets, catering to young children with nursery runs as well as their culture-hound parents with world-class art galleries (Oberlech) and surprisingly ambitious culture programs (St. Christoph), and, of course, St. Anton, or Sankt Anton, as the locals call it: a jamming party town with concept hotels and freeriding adrenalin on tap.
We arrive at Lech to blue skies and above zero Celsius daytime temperatures. Most of Lech’s slopes are sunny, but despite a gap in snowing, the paths are still conveniently powdered, with lots of skiing for beginners as well as intermediates. We are immediately immersed in some original Lech magic when we check in at the wonderfully peaceful Hotel Kristiania, where some of the suites can be best described as Heidi Meets Ralph Lauren. ‘Luxury’ is a word which is liberally used in the hotel trade nowadays, but upon encountering Kristiania’s uncompromising levels of service, the word is assigned a whole new level of meaning.
A stroll down the town’s main street confirms the town’s reputation. Pretty, quaint and welcoming, the village is the epitome of Alpine charm. Breathtaking scenery at every turn, luxurious riverside chalets, and an overall laid-back vibe all contribute to a truly unique ambiance. Lech managed to retain its appeal by keeping to virtually the same size the village was back in the 60’s – around 8,000 beds. However it has not been resting on its laurels: staying true to its pioneering spirit and historic role as a winter sports global player, the resort has been regularly upping the quality with a sprawling net of groomed paths, extensive off-piste, and the renowned active ski school. Alongside the obsessively detail-oriented accommodation at your every step, it all amounts to an efficient, inspiring and modern experience.
Out on the snow, the Lech-Zurs-Zug-Lech west-to-east facing ‘White Ring’ is a lot of fun: great views, varied runs (showboarders alert – some flats and uphill bits,) and lots of sun rays hitting the scenic routes especially towards the end of the ring, make for a satisfying two hour circuit which can end up at the magnificently located Zeit bar. The downhill route from Kriegerhorn is a good one as well – confusing piste map aside, it offers a choice of cruising and speedy runs with well groomed blue and red options. A good terrain park by the Schlegelkpf chairlift offers a funbox, some kickers and rollers. For the advanced skier, the one Black route would not be a problem with so much solid off-piste, complete with fresh powder that can stay untouched for days.
For those who crave the adrenaline-charged ecstasy of an expert trail, Summit Thrust stands as an embodiment of thrill and technique. This trail’s rugged vertical drops and steep descents demand absolute mastery of edge control, balance, and split-second decision-making. The reward? A panoramic vista from the summit that stretches across the Alpine horizon, making every pulse-pounding maneuver worth the effort. Glacier Glide offers a marriage of technique and elegance, beckoning intermediate skiers to navigate its wide curves and subtle undulations. The trail’s icy allure demands a finesse in carving and weight distribution. Graceful glides through pristine snow offer the sensation of dancing on ice, with each rhythmic sway connecting skier and terrain in an intimate partnership. Intermediate skiers seeking an exhilarating blend of speed and technique will find themselves captivated by Valley Whirl. This trail presents a rollercoaster of undulating dips and thrilling ascents, providing the perfect canvas for perfecting the art of weight transfer and rhythm. Skiers ride the contours with exuberance, the rush of air accompanying each heart-racing descent.
Lech boasts an intricate network of cross-country skiing trails thoughtfully designed to provide a comprehensive experience. The trails encompass varying terrains, including gentle slopes for beginners, undulating pathways for intermediates, and demanding ascents and descents for advanced skiers. This strategic trail composition allows skiers to progress gradually, building confidence and skill while ensuring experienced skiers remain engaged. The resort’s meticulous trail grooming and maintenance play a pivotal role in ensuring optimal skiing conditions. Trails are regularly groomed to achieve consistent surfaces, with classic tracks and skating lanes well-defined to accommodate both skiing styles. Grooming quality contributes to efficient gliding and helps skiers maintain technique, while also minimizing the risk of injury on well-compacted surfaces. Amenities and facilities that cater to the needs of cross-country skiers are ample: rental services offer equipment suitable for various terrains and skiing styles, enabling beginners to access appropriate gear; ski schools with experienced instructors facilitate skill development, offering lessons tailored to individual needs; additionally, strategically located rest areas and warming huts provide essential comfort and hydration breaks.
(Photograph by Daniel Zangrel)
After the slopes, Lech’s après ski scene awaits. At it’s heart lies the harmonious convergence of culture and camaraderie where skiers and snow enthusiasts, clad in their alpine finest, gather like players in a symphony of shared experiences. The village square becomes a canvas of stories exchanged and laughter shared, and a celebration of culinary artistry. Local eateries serve up Austrian classics with a modern twist, transforming rustic ingredients into gourmet creations that both challenge and satisfy palates. Each dish is a love letter to tradition, meticulously crafted to elevate après ski nourishment into an unforgettable indulgence.
The handful of après bars are centrally located, overlooking the main drag and are inviting with a mix of ages and relaxed drinking scene. One of the iconic institutions of Lech après is Chalet Alpen Glow, an ode to Alpine elegance, with its cozy interiors adorned with wooden accents and flickering fireplaces, creating an ambiance that’s both intimate and opulent. Savoring a selection of exquisite Austrian wines and a meticulously curated menu, patrons are treated to local delicacies from the tenderest Wiener Schnitzel to the velvety embrace of Apfelstrudel, each dish becomes a journey into Austria’s culinary heritage.
If Chalet Alpen Glow whispers sophistication, Snowflake Bar shouts exuberance. This lively locale, nestled on the resort’s main square, pulsates with energy as après-ski enthusiasts gather to to share vibrant cocktails and Austrian spirits flow like the adjacent river. The jovial atmosphere is punctuated by live DJs and the bar’s outdoor terrace is a coveted spot to bask in the Alpine glow, sharing tales of snowy escapades with new-found friends.
Lech and its smaller neighboring villages had been attracting celebrities and snow-loving folks alike, many of whom are becoming more privy to the area’s dual secret: this is the place to go if you’d like to experience good old fashioned Alpine charm – with great ski to boot.